Spice of the month: Vanilla

 

The story of an indomitable flower



Illustration Vanilla MaxDaumin

Vanilla (Vanilla planifolia) is a climbing vine that can reach around fifteen meters in height. Growing in a tropical climate, after flowering it gives green fruits in the shape of long beans, which we call pods. The Vanilla genus belongs to the Orchid family and has over a hundred species. Only a few are marketed for taste purposes: we note Vanilla tahitensis and Vanilla pompona. Vanilla planifolia from Madagascar represents 80% of the world market.

The word Vanilla comes from Vanilla in Spanish which means “Bean”. Indeed Herman Cortés led his first expeditions within the Aztec empire in 1519 and brought it back to serve the kingdom of Spain. It gradually introduced itself into the European royal courts.

In 1819, when we already knew “Vanilla Planifolia” in the gardens of the Natural History Museum of Paris, we decided to export it to Bourbon Island, in other words Reunion, because it should be popular there. But despite all the attention given to its culture, for twenty years it was a losing bet. We have forgotten the essential: originally from Mexico, this vanilla was born from the action of its pollinating benefactors, such as the Melipone bee, absent from Reunion Island.

Thanks to the genius of a child then enslaved, hope is reborn. He figured out how to manually pollinate the beautiful orchid. Its culture was then able to spread throughout the islands of the Indian Ocean. The know-how of the young Edmond Albius who was freed for this discovery is still relevant today. Reunion will thus become, for a time, the world's leading producer and the cradle of the dissemination of new know-how. (in 1898 more than 200 tonnes were exported!) Vanilla cultivation spread to its neighbors: Madagascar, Mauritius, the Comoros.

The “Marrieuses” still carry out the manual fertilization of this vanilla today, an essential showcase of perfumes and flavors. Now protected by a label, Bourbon vanilla is mainly grown in Madagascar.



A work of patience for excellence



The quality of a vanilla essentially depends on the work carried out by the producer during the harvest and its subsequent processing.

The harvest is done 8 to 10 months after fertilization of the vanilla plant. The harvest takes place from June to September, the green pods (resembling long beans) are picked when ripe. The pods should be picked neither too early nor too late, when they turn from green to yellowish. Vanilla is said to be “canary-tailed ripe”. The picking must be done with great care to ensure the quality of the fruit. Picking them too early cancels out any possibility of flavor and vanillin levels developing.




The preparation of the pod is long and includes 6 phases; here are those of our producer:

Scalding: This operation consists of immersing wicker baskets containing green vanilla pods in water heated to between 40 and 65°. The immersion lasts approximately 3 to 5 minutes and allows the pods to mortify.

Parboiling: The pods are then placed in large wooden boxes padded with blankets in order to avoid any heat loss for 2 to 3 days (parboiling or sweating). It is at this stage that the vanilla takes on its chocolate color.

Drying: The vanilla pods are dried in the sun for 2 to 3 hours a day and then in the shade on racks. This process will last 4 to 6 weeks, or even longer depending on the weather.

Refining: The pods are then placed in wooden trunks lined with parchment paper. It is refined during this period. Trunks are checked every week.

Sizing: The pods are measured and classified according to their sizes, categories and colors (split, unsplit, black, red, cuts, etc.). Pods of the same length and classification are generally tied together and grouped into bundles. Each bunch weighs approximately 250 grams (70 to 100 pods), the weight and number of pods varying depending on the qualities.

Packaging: The pods are packaged in metal boxes lined with parchment paper.

Our vanilla has gone through all these stages. It takes on average 5 to 6 months to obtain our vanilla.

We retain the 18cm pods with a humidity level of 30 to 35%.

Our producer, a committed vanilla

Our producer or rather producer! is a family business run by two women. They offer a product of excellence found on several starred restaurants in France.

Beyond the fruit of their work, their vanilla is a committed vanilla. Their production is certified organic and fair trade.

They act within the village of Andranovato on different axes:

  • Improving education,

  • Improving hygiene and health services and access to drinking water,

  • Investing in families, community well-being and protecting farmers,

  • Improving farmers' income.





Use

Vanilla beans: the quintessence of aromas are found inside the pod, these are the beans.

Split it in two with a knife or the blade of a scissor which you insert into the pod and go up along the entire length of the pod to open it.

Use your finger rather than a knife to extract all the vanilla beans. The knife risks taking away some fibers from the pod, bringing a little bitterness.

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